Open work weaving produces a light, delicate cloth, which could be used for a variety of purposes. While resembling a gauze weave, the panels making up the scarf (#2 - 91.369) are actually made of a loose plain weave, which was much simpler and less time-consuming to weave. The Chancay weavers are known for their remarkable open weaves, and scholars have attributed this to the culture’s intimate connection with the coastal fishing tradition of net making. The diagonally-oriented design of rectilinear geometric motifs was achieved through a particularly intricate process of tie-dying, which would have involved tying the fabric into differing gathers and then administering the dye.
The sprang technique seen in #1 (86.119) is an ancient weaving technique that produces a naturally elastic textile. While the loom is strung with vertical warps, as in plain weaving, there are no weft threads. Instead, the weaver creates the textile by manually interlocking the warp threads. The design is achieved by intertwining the warps and keeping tight control of the weave to prevent unraveling. Rods or sticks help maintain proper fiber positions. The weaving is completed when it becomes too tight to pick up the threads.